Crape Myrtle 'Dynamite' features an abundance of large, true-red flower clusters for up to 100 days during Summer! Upright, broad, rounded canopy to 12 to 20' tall and 8 to 16' wide. The dark green leaves turn to orange and red in Fall and contrast nicely with the exfoliating, grey-brown bark. Useful in landscape beds, islands and medians; planted in a row, as a specimen, or planted in groups of typically 3 or more. Useful in foundation plantings as espalier (against a large open wall), or as a focal point or entryway tree. Yes, the flowers are TRUE red!

Height: 15' to 20' Landscape Usages: Landscape Beds, Foundation, Outdoor Living Areas, Garden Pond, Woodland Border, Containers / Planters, Entryway, Espalier, Frame Structure, Focal Point Specimen, Provides Shade, Street Tree, Small Groups, Median Strips, Property Value, Tree Form Shrub Sun Exposure: Full Sun, Mostly Sun Foliage Color: Green Seasons of Bloom: Summer Blooms, Fall Foliage Type: Tree, Deciduous Theme Gardens: Japanese

Spread: 10' to 15' Attracts: Visual Attention Characteristics: Flower, Foliage, Growth Habit / Form, Trunks/Branches/Stems Fragrances: None Growth Rate: Fast, Moderate Colors: Red Resistant To: Deer Resistant, Disease, Drought, Heat, Mildew Soil Needs: Ammended Clay, Average, Sandy, Humusy, Well-Drained Water Needs: Low USDA Zones: 7, 8, 9

Crape Myrtle 'Dynamite' Feeding Instructions

Fertilize this flowering tree lightly with a well-balanced tree fertilizer or organic plant food. Fertilize in Spring, after new growth has emerged, and again in late Summer or early Fall.

Crape Myrtle 'Dynamite' Pruning Instructions

When a crape myrtle tree is pruned properly it will produce twice the number of branches and blooms as it did during the previous year, and the new branches will be strong enough to support blooms. The best time to prune crape myrtles is a month or so before the new growth typically begins to emerge in Spring (In zones 7,8, and 9 this is typically around late February). How much to prune? The rule of thumb for pruning is to start by tracing down from the top of a past years new stem, where there may be dried seed pods from last years flowers, to a point where that stem connects to an older branch. Cut the stem off at a point about 4-6" above the connection (intersection of the stem and the branch). NOTE: Do not prune below this intersection as your neighbors may do! After pruning all of last years main stems, you may prune away all horizontal twiggy growth along all main branches including the trunk(s). If suckers have grown from the base of the trunk prune these away as well.

Crape Myrtle 'Dynamite' Pest Instructions

Most modern varieties of crape myrtle, particularly the 'Fauriei Hybrids', are not prone to disease or mildew problems. Insects don't present a serious problem either, however, there are a couple of critters, the Japanese beetle and the honeydew aphid, which can be a temporary nuicance. The Japanese beetle arrives in Summer and can be easily and effectively controlled with an application of liquid Sevin spray. If you notice, in Fall, a black "sooty mold" on the leaves of your crape myrtle, this is usually caused by honeydew aphids leaving behind a sticky residue that collests dirt and such. This sooty mold is not a serious problem and will be gone with the leaves in Fall. If you have older varieties of crape myrtle, white powdery mildew can be a problem. Spray foliage with a fungicide to kill mildew.